What you’ll need

• 9-inch pie dish. Deep dish for the filling
• Large mixing bowl. For the filling
• Whisk. For blending the filling smooth
• Measuring cups and spoons. For spices and liquids
• Rolling pin. If making crust from scratch

The three Thanksgiving pies are pumpkin, pecan and apple, and they all start from the same crust. What differs is the failure each one is prone to: pumpkin and pecan overcook and weep, and apple leaves a gap under its lid because the fruit shrinks. Solve those three things and you can make any combination of them without drama.

[Photo: three pies on a counter — a smooth pumpkin, a glossy pecan, a lattice-topped apple]

How many pies, and which

For 8 to 12 people, make two. Pumpkin plus one other, pecan if your crowd likes rich, apple if they like fruit. For a big gathering or a dessert-focused family, three. Each 9-inch pie gives 8 slices, or 10 to 12 thin ones on a table with other desserts. Do not make a whole pie of something only one person eats; make that one as a few pie bites in a muffin tin instead, the way our mini sweet potato pies work.

The one crust

Makes two single crusts (for two custard pies) or one double crust (for an apple pie).

• 2½ cups (315g) all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 cup (225g) cold unsalted butter, cubed
• 6 to 10 tablespoons ice water

Rub or pulse the butter into the dry ingredients until it is in flat, pea-to-almond-sized flakes. Add ice water a tablespoon at a time until the dough just holds when pressed. Divide, flatten into discs, wrap, and chill at least 1 hour. Roll cold, fit into the plate, and chill or freeze the shell again for 20 minutes before baking, cold dough into a hot oven is how you keep the sides from slumping.

Pumpkin filling

Blind-bake the shell fully. Cook a 15 oz can of pumpkin with ¾ cup brown sugar and 1 tablespoon pumpkin pie spice in a pan for 5 to 7 minutes, then whisk in 3 eggs, a yolk, and 1¼ cups cream off the heat. Pour into the warm shell and bake at 375°F for 15 minutes, then 350°F for 30 to 40 minutes, until the center wobbles as one piece. Full method, including why you cook the filling first, is in our pumpkin pie recipe.

Pecan filling

Partially blind-bake the shell (15 minutes with weights, 5 without). Whisk together:

• 3 large eggs
• ¾ cup (180ml) light corn syrup or maple syrup
• ¾ cup (150g) light brown sugar, packed
• 4 tablespoons (55g) butter, melted
• 1 teaspoon vanilla, ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1½ cups (170g) pecan halves

Pour into the warm shell and bake at 350°F (175°C) for 50 to 60 minutes. It is done when the center 2 inches still wobble slightly and the edges are set, the same rule as pumpkin. Baked until the center is firm, the custard overcooks and weeps a syrupy puddle later. Cool completely; the filling sets as it cools. Maple in place of corn syrup gives a less cloying, more complex pie.

Apple filling

Use a mix of apples, some tart and firm (Granny Smith, Braeburn) and some sweet (Honeycrisp, Golden Delicious). About 3 lb, peeled and sliced.

• 3 lb apples, sliced ¼ inch thick
• ¾ cup (150g) sugar (mix white and brown)
• 2 tablespoons flour or 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1½ teaspoons cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, pinch of salt
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 tablespoon butter

Pre-cook the apples. Cook the sliced apples with the sugar, spices and lemon in a wide pan over medium heat for 8 to 12 minutes, until they have released liquid and softened slightly. Drain the liquid into a small pan, reduce it to a syrup, and toss it back through with the flour or cornstarch. This is the fix for the classic apple-pie gap: raw apples shrink dramatically in the oven, and the top crust bakes into a dome with an inch of air beneath it. Pre-cooked apples have already done their shrinking.

Fill the bottom crust, dot with butter, add the top crust or a lattice, seal and vent, and brush with egg wash. Bake at 425°F (220°C) for 20 minutes, then 375°F for 35 to 45 minutes, until the crust is deep gold and the filling bubbles through the vents.

The make-ahead schedule

• Up to 3 days ahead: make and chill the crust discs, or freeze them.
• 2 days ahead: blind-bake the custard-pie shells.
• 1 day ahead: bake the pumpkin and pecan pies completely, both improve after an overnight chill.
• Thanksgiving morning: bake the apple pie, which is best the day it is made and needs the oven only before the turkey goes in, or after it comes out.

See the rest of the dessert plan in our Thanksgiving desserts guide, and the non-pie options in Thanksgiving dessert ideas.

Frequently asked questions

How many pies do I need for Thanksgiving?

Two for 8 to 12 people, pumpkin plus one other. Three for a big crowd. Each 9-inch pie serves 8, or 10 to 12 thin slices alongside other desserts.

Why does my pecan pie weep or stay runny?

It was overbaked, so the custard broke, or it was underbaked and needs a full cool to set. Bake until the center still wobbles slightly, then cool completely, it firms as it cools.

Why is there a gap between the crust and the filling in my apple pie?

The raw apples shrank as they baked while the top crust set in place. Pre-cook the apple slices on the stove first so they do their shrinking before the pie is assembled.

Can I make Thanksgiving pies ahead?

Pumpkin and pecan pies bake a day ahead and are better for the overnight chill. Apple pie is best baked the day it is served. The crust can be made days ahead or frozen.

Can all three pies use the same crust?

Yes. One all-butter crust recipe covers all three, two single shells for the custard pies, or one double crust for the apple.

The bottom line

One crust, three fillings. Wobble for the custard pies, pre-cooked fruit for the apple. Bake the pumpkin and pecan a day ahead, the apple in the morning, and pick two unless you are feeding a crowd.

Save this for the make-ahead schedule, three pies is manageable if you spread them out.