Dry the bread. Spread the cubes on trays and leave a day or two, or dry in a 275°F oven for 30 to 40 minutes until crisp and pale gold. This is not a step to skip.

Aromatics. Melt the butter in a large skillet, letting it just start to brown for extra depth. Cook the onion and celery 10 to 12 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and herbs for the last minute.

Combine. In a large bowl, toss the bread with the aromatic butter, salt, pepper and any additions. Pour over 2½ cups of stock and the beaten eggs and fold gently. The cubes should be moistened through but not soaked, add the last of the stock only if it looks dry.

Bake. Transfer to a buttered 9x13 dish, mounding it slightly. Cover with foil and bake at 350°F (175°C) for 25 minutes. Uncover and bake 25 to 35 minutes more, until the top is deeply browned and crisp.